[Jim Dockery]

Like many climbers and skiers I've drooled over the John Scurlock's winter aerial photos of the Cascades. Looking at my backyard mountains up around Monte Cristo revealed many gorgeous ski lines, the only problem being finding a partner willing to hump skis up there when snow still covered the rocks. Jeff (Shred) is my go to guy when venturing into dubious territory and after a coin flip between Rainier (his first choice) we settled on seeing what the snow was like up on the west side of Columbia.

Dream winter ski conditions on Columbia's West side

We shouldered our over night packs loaded with skis and boots and started mountain biking the Monte Cristo road about 9 a.m. on Sunday. Other than pushing the bikes through a little detour trail (with narrow trees tricky to negotiate with boots sticking out sideways from our packs) the ride went surprisingly well and was definitely faster on the way up than walking.

biking the Monte Cristo road

Monte Cristo relics

The hike up to Poodle Dog Pass went well, although we lost the trail near the top and went straight up on snow emerging on the ridge a bit east of Silver Lake.

Poodle Dog Pass trail

We'd both been on Silvertip, but never continued toward Columbia. A bit of misreading the topo sent us up onto the ridge east of the lake and on a few more up and downs before we found our way onto the proper ridge leading to Columbia.

"What the !@#$, I can't ski this!"

When we finally got our first good view into the west face gully we were very disappointed to see the choke points had melted out. Jeff threw a bit of a hissy fit about following me on another wild goose chase, but calmed down in a couple minutes. We resigned ourselves to continuing and seeing what we could ski. Jeff was hoping he could huck over the shrunds, while I figured I'd just climb around em. We both hoped the firm suncups we were traversing would smooth out higher up.

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West side of Columbia

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Traverse to camp

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route to Columbia

We pulled up onto the ridge and found a perfect flat spot to camp with a little drip coming off a rock where Jeff set up my dromedary to gather water.

I was sweaty, tired, and hungry and just wanted to sit and rest. Jeff thought we should try to bag the peak while the snow was softened by the afternoon sun, but I didn't think I had enough gas to go all the way. After some rest, munchies, and rehydration I was revived and agreed to at least climb the nice looking slope above camp and make some evening turns.

starting the climb above camp

Jeff wanted to get up onto the ridge to look closer at the climb, so I followed him.

traversing Columbia's west ridge

Once we got there he looked at his altimeter and said "It's only another 1500 ft., let's keep going until 8 and check it out."

Our rt. on Columbia's upper west side

Feeling a bit bamboozed I wearily agreed as long as he set the boot pack, so on up we continued as the high clouds finally cleared and the light improved.

I'm not sure if it was a ploy or not, but Jeff traversed over a bit to see if he could jump over the lower shrund, while I continued up to suss out the route. I found an easy way around the first little rock wall on snow to the left, then another steep snow patch led to easy rock scrambling up and across heather to the main gully.

end run around first wall

Once on the upper snowfield I knew we had it in the bag and I was in my element kicking good steps in perfect snow as the gorgeous views around us demanded attention (and photos) as well.

The final slopes were turning pink and the moon rose to the south as we approached the summit rocks. I'd left my glasses in camp (thinking we were only going for a short ski run) and had to keep wearing my prescription dark glacier glasses, so we had to hussle to get down before dark, but it was so beautiful I had to stop and snap some shots.

I knew the route took an end run left, but I traversed a bit low and looked across rotten vertical walls. Fifty feet higher I came to the steep ledge that cuts around to the last snow slope. We should have left skis there, but I hoped we could cut a turn or two off the summit to put the icing on the cake, so I kept them on. The final slope reared up to almost vertical, so I climbed into the gap between the rock and snow where I could grip some good cracks as I stepped up through the steepest move, my ski tips scratching on the rock. I told Jeff to be careful, but he finessed it with perfect style.

contemplating the crux move just below the summit

With soaring hearts we pulled onto the summit together just at 8. The uncertain conditions, unplanned summit climb, all day on the go weariness, and especially the gorgeous summit views as the sun fell through the clouds made it a peak experience neither of us will ever forget.

Jeff signed the register while I shot some panos.

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View east to Glacier Pk.

north

west

After only a few precious minutes on top we shouldered the packs (and skis - no way even Jeff was going to cut down that summit slope without any runout) and climbed down very carefully.

The sun emerged from the clouds and bathed the mountain in gold and pink when I clicked into my bindings and got first dibs on the top snow field.

Even though I was tired everything felt right and I knew this was where I was meant to be. Perfect smooth corn gripped my edges as I carefully jump-turned my way down the steep slope.

First turns

golden glow

Jeff's turn

A happy boy in his element

Jeff had wisely decided not to jump any shrunds so we both took off the skis and scrambed over a short rock section to the next even steeper snow.

Even Jeff went slow and carefully

My favorite shot

I take my turn

Down climbing the final rocky section went quick and easy, then it was fun cruising down the ridge back to camp in the last light.

With the embers of the day glowing behind us we toasted sweet success with a cold beer as our freeze dried dinners soaked.

We slept in the next morning since the sun didn't hit our camp until late. Clouds were gathering as we traversed back across the ridge. We cut below our up and down route of the previous day as Jeff found a good route through the trees down lower.

Back at Silver Lake Jeff insisted on climbing up to the shoulder of Silver Peak. "When will we be back here with skis again? Carpe diem dude," he quoted me from the night before. I couldn't argue with that, so we unloaded the packs and headed up.

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Silver Peak

Even though it was clouding up, the views were great on the ridge, with many years worth of ski descents and cool little climbs surrounding us.

On Silver Peak

We got some good turns off the top, then bumped down on increasing suncups to the lake.

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Skiing Silvertip

Loading up the packs again we tried to follow our tracks back down the steep hillside below the pass with some tricky skiing on hard suncups and brush traverses. I was feeling my age on this part and worried about twisting my back, pulling a muscle, or falling into a hole, but managed to follow Jeff almost all the way down to the bare trail without a major mishap.

This is fun and we're havin' it!

The excellent trail went easy, even in ski boots.

Cruising down from Poodle Dog Pass

Back on the bikes we rolled on down the road, hitting the car about five. When we finally got in cell coverage I called my wife and asked her to order a large George's from Neapolis Pizza in Lake Stevens. Soon we were scarfing down pizza and salad on the deck as sprinkles fell around the umbrella, regaling Debbie with tales of long days, perfect turns, and incredible sunsets. As Jeff left for home we shook hands and agreed it was, "THE BEST DAY EVER!"

[Tangeman]

Amazing

[yukon222]

Superb story, pictures and effort. Will be a great memory for a long time for you guys.

[Goats Know]

Very nice! A trip report that inspires and brings back memories of what it is like to have those special days in the mountains. Beautiful Pics.

[the Zachster]

GREAT trip report and awesome pics to go along!!! That one will put a grin on your face for weeks to come!

[Hulksmash]

OMG! I can imagine the looks on the summer turons en route to Monte Cristo, at the sight of this.

[ale_capone]

YEAH!!!! gimmie a high five! Don't know if I've ever been so excited to someone else ski something. Seriously. I have been dreaming of that side of columbia.... and no lying was showing my very uniterested girlfriend it from google earth on my new smarty pants phone last night. I'm gonna calm down a bit and reread this again later..

[silence]

awesome .. great tr and photos jim .. you guys really nailed it ... nice work!

[silly_traveler]

Beautiful story and pics!! You guys are awesome

[Go Jo]

Outstanding all around!

[Stefan-K]

ha! - I thought for sure that was your idea to ride it in the sunset Jim, for the photo op of it (I always look at the pics first), so it was funny to read that it was Jeff that got you up there for those beautiful sunset saturated shots! Glad he lost the toss though... good teamwork. excellent trip and TR

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Nice work. I have to get in there one of these days.

[Bedivere]

Fan-freakin'-tastic! That looks so awesome! I've been wanting to ski lines up there ever since I first climbed that mt. back in the '90s. Way to get-'er-done in style.

[Dayhike Mike]

Very, very nice! Great pics and write up! Thanks for posting this, Jim... Columbia's definitely one of my favorites. BTW - How's the berry crop looking? (har har!)

[Hikingqueen]

I love this "Even though I was tired everything felt right and I knew this was where I was meant to be."